Blogs for Expatarrivals

I have been writing articles for expatarrivals.com since last year, the subjects can be great asset and interest for you. So I will be sharing them with you in my blog. Let me know if you have any questions.

Mosquito Wars!

This past month, me and my husband are on the move for mosquito hunt!  Especially my husband! Since the start of the rainy season, something happened to my husband and he became so obsessed with them. He believes they only bite him!:)

Every night, after 8pm something happens, and they are so many off them flying in the air, and trust me all the windows are closed by 5pm in our house. The weird thing is, they are not the mosquitoes we are used to, call me crazy, but these ones are smart!! for some reason they do not die! Last week, we counted we killed around 25 of them in one night! And let me also mention, those mosquito plugs are useless, mosquitoes definitely developed resistance to them. So do not waste your money! Make sure to put your bed nets down, they are a must these days! But do not think they will stop bothering you, OK they cannot bite,  but how about that awkward noise these small creatures can make! Can not wait for month of January:)

Crime in Nairobi!

This is one of the sensitive issue in here, in small circles everybody knows but never likes to talk about, basically ignores and change the subject. People around me even say, crime is everywhere! not only in here! What an excuse to make yourself feel comfortable, right?!

 I totally do not agree, and am being very open about it when people ask me.

Before we moved to Nairobi, I read many articles about the crime in the city, even heard the term 'Nairobbery'! And found it, do not know, may be little awkward or overboard. Unfortunately, what I ve witnessed myself in first hand, it is Nairobbery!

Open one of the local newspapers, horid stories start right away, from the front page until to the back. At some point, you feel like this is too much? may be not true? how can it be? But from my conversation with locals, that is only the tip of the iceberg! Lately, I have been hearing from the expat community, all the compounds around us burglarized a few times. And there are people moving between compounds because they have been robbed already many times, and please let me point out, supposedly, these are gated secured compunds! What I learned is, most of these are inside jobs, these people know your movements, where you are, what time you go to sleep, or if you are on a Holiday! It tends to happen mostly in single houses, but lately lots of burglaries in compounds as well. I hear some people say, there are crimes in every major city.  I can agree with that argument a little but not much. Worst thing is, when something happens to you even in daylight, people do not move, they just stare at you, like they are in the circus, and they are there to watch this (Believe me, it happened to us!) And further, there are neither cops nor police stations you can call up to, or there are no patrolling cars on the roads, because vast majority of the police force do not have cars! Can you see the big picture now? I am not writing this to scare people or write bad things about Nairobi, but it is what it is. If you live here, or planning to move here make sure to do your research diligently.

Short Rains Are Back!

It has been very dry lately (very unusual) up until this past weekend. Now it feels like all of a sudden the weather has turned 180 degrees in one night and the cooler, rainy weather is back in full swing! Locals say that the rain arrived late this year. As much as I hate the rain in Nairobi (imagine the conditions of roads and traffic which were already in grid lock!) we needed it.

All the dust disappeared from the roads. The trees and flowers aren’t brown anymore! There is fresh air outside, and even though holes in the road are filled with water, it is a great refreshing feeling.

On the other hand, water cuts are back too! We’ve had water cuts on and off throughout whole week, so we feel fortunate to have water tanks :). And of course mosquitos are back as well. They are the most stubborn creatures I have ever seen-- they bite you no matter what you do! And the noise they make at night wakes you up! So we are definitely putting our mosquito nets down at night these days. Typically, short rains continue up until the end of December or the beginning of January. They give the crops much needed water. Luckily it mostly rains at night, and we still can see the sun during the day with lots of fast-moving clouds.

Traffic!

I couldn’t help myself but to write about the traffic today!

Imagine yourself sitting at traffic. Your destination is only 10 kms away and it takes you an hour to get there! Ok, I know all of you are saying that all metropolitan cities have bad traffic. But let’s not compare Nairobi with any metropolitan city we know. Even the population of Nairobi doesn’t compare to metropolitan cities around the world.
Anyway, since we moved here, I try not to drive as much as possible. It’s not because there is traffic (I drove in Istanbul and beltway in DC), but because of the reckless driving of matatus and buses, very slow moving people and cars (it is like watching a movie in a slow motion!), huge holes in the roads, no traffic lights or signs whatsoever.

So I was driving my kids to school on Langata Road this morning, when all of a sudden, traffic stopped. Still being naive about Nairobi traffic, I thought there was an accident or something pretty bad had happened, otherwise why would you stop and not be able to move an inch for 30-40 minutes, right? There’s gotta be a reasonable explanation.

Well, not really! After the cars started to move little by little, I saw a man standing next to his car, in the middle of the road talking on his cellphone. It seemed like his car broke down, which is totally understandable, but neither he nor people around him bothered to move his car to the left, where you let the traffic move. Here, people do not bother to provide assistance-- you are on your own. If you do not have basic common sense (like moving your broken car to the side, or giving way to other cars if you drive a heavy weight truck), you ruin other people's days in the traffic for something could be solved very easily!

Drive safe, and stay away from matatus!

Life Coaching!

Probably all of us have heard the term "life coaching" and have a basic understanding of what it is. I had been interested in life coaching for years, but never got a chance to pursue it, or maybe I just didn’t yet have the will.

While living in Kenya, I went through some self-discoveries, self-thinking, and worked through what I wanted to do with my life next. I found myself searching for life coach training. I was so surprised at the number of resources out there-- blogs, companies, interest groups, different types of training, certifications, etc.

After some research I have decided to get my life coach training from Coach U, a U.S.-based company on the market for over 20 years. Coach U provides live training for students all over the world who come from many different backgrounds.

At some point in our lives, I believe we all need a mentor to help us see the big picture. We are so busy with the challenges of daily life-- working, raising kids in today’s digital world, socializing, feeling the pressure of being active on social media, trying to be fit, eating and living healthy... and so much more.

All these expectations create so much pressure for us. I sometimes feel like we have to carry a couple of identities to be accepted. And at some point, we feel restless, fatigued, lost, and don’t know where to look. Sometimes these feelings are too hard to confess to ourselves, let alone to our friends and family. This is where life coaching plays a great role. The best thing about it is that you’re not alone and don’t have to feel and live that way.

I heard a saying, "You can only be successful in the things you are passionate about." Isn't that a powerful thought? This is how the journey started for me. How about you?

Outdoor Activities for Kids

It’s great to be a kid in Kenya because the weather is clear and nice throughout the year and that’s a great excuse for kids to be outside all day. Since we moved here, my now 7 year-old and 2.5 year-old literally live outside :). They bike, play hide and seek, scoot around on their scooters, swim, run, and just enjoy being outside with their friends.

I remember how free I felt when I was a kid. We didn’t have internet, iPads, Facebook or anything-- we just played outside all day long. A carefree and playful childhood is what I had hoped for my kids when we had them. These days, when I look at my kids, I see myself. You can imagine how happy it makes me. I’m so glad they are able to grow freely and carelessly.

Unfortunately, nowadays kids spend most of their time in front of a TV or computer. They do not get to be a child.  So my biggest motivation to live and enjoy everyday of my life here is to see my children growing purely, in this beautiful weather, amidst lush gardens and clean air.

After the Attack

It has been two weeks since the Westgate attack and still not much is known. The Kenyan government said so many things that we’re not sure which one is right. What I know is, many people are still missing, whatever that means....and 68+ people are dead and hundreds are wounded.  

And now, I am reading that the Kenyan government had intelligence reports about this attack months ago! There are events in life that are hard to prevent. I believe we all have to live our lives as normally as possible. But the government not taking any preventive measurements is unbelievable and unacceptable!

It will take years to get back on track here in Kenya. The country is already fragile because of its economy, border problems with Somali, elections, high unemployment rate and many more factors.

I heard Westgate Mall top floors are totally demolished, stores are moving out, restaurants and small shops don’t have many customers anymore. Wounded people's hospital bills are so high that they don’t know what to... should they be worrying about their health or the huge hospital bill? I hope the Kenyan government will step in and provide financial assistance and emotional support to all of the survivors and family of lost ones...

Human Loss...

We all live in a world that is neither safe nor secure. Even the most unexpected places witness horrible tragedies. You’ll find yourself with no words to describe your feelings and anger. The saddest tragedies are when humans hurt other humans.

I was only 5 kms away from the Pentagon when the September 11 attacks happened. I could not even comprehend the event. I walked home from my office looking around in shock. I didn’t understand the impact of the September 11 attacks on the U.S. and on all the countries around the world for quite some time...

Now that we live in Nairobi, Westgate shopping mall is a place we all go, to meet our friends and spend time with our children. That’s where we take our kids to run safely, to play on the upper-level playground or to have a quick bite with our friends.

Watching it on TV, I thought, “No. It can't be happening here, it should not, and why...?”

In our lives, we all go through the same phases, birth through death. And we accept these as our realities. What we cannot accept is when death does not come naturally-- when a human being’s vicious act causes death.

No matter who you are, where you are from, what really matters is being a human:

-You respect others, their lives and beliefs.

-You are willing to live with other people who are different than you.

- You teach your kids to be gentle human beings, not only to friends or family members, but to any living creature on this earth.

Humanity will always win, no matter how hard some may try to take that away. We should not lose our hope and our love for life.

I pray for all who lose their lives around the world.

God Bless You.

Restaurants in and around Nairobi

I think this is one of most asked question when you move to a new city. Are there any nice restaurants? How is the food? Is the food expensive? How is the service? I will provide some information for the places I have dined at so far. Another great source that has detailed information on restaurants in different areas is tripadvisor, which I used a lot and even created my own accountJ

When we moved here, we first dined at the restaurants we had heard about. We did not want to take any risks because of the hygiene issues. So, first we tried the Art Caffe. This is an “all in one place” that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It also has a bakery. You can find Art Caffes in and around Nairobi, as it is very popular among expats because they serve continental food. Art Caffes are always crowded, especially during weekday lunchtime and on weekends. Most, but not all of the Art Caffes, have live music on Friday nights. So, if you want a quick bite to eat, this is definitely the right choice! The food is reasonably priced and the service is not bad for the Kenyan standard. Even though I found the service to be quite slow, I highly recommend trying something from their bakery like a cake, or yummy chocolate brownie. Their breads are even good from western standard, very strong in flavor.

Osteria: This is a family run Italian eatery with two locations. One is located in Karen and the second is in the Village Market. I have dined many times at the Osteria located in Karen. It is situated in quite a leafy party of Karen. Since it is very close to our home, it is a frequent stop for us. The great thing about dining in Nairobi is that you mostly dine outside due to the lovely weather throughout the year.  Osteria serves great food with a one of a kind Italian touch. The managers always come to the table to check on the food and service, which is lovely. On Sundays they offer a family brunch where there are many activities for kids, such as jumping castle and a pool. I definitely recommend making  a reservation during the weekend. Even though everybody has a different perspective what is expensive what is not, Osteria is well priced in comparison with service, food and environment.

Talisman: For some reason, Talisman is highly popular among expats. I could not figure out why though, but I will look further into this. We’ve been to the Talisman so many times and it has always been overcrowded in both the dinner and bar area. You definitely need to make a reservation!! I personally am not the biggest fan of their food, it is not too expensive and not too cheap. Talisman offers a diverse menu ranging from sushi to pork. This is probably why they are always crowded, based on their variety of options to choose from. It is right on Ngong Rd, before the Osteria. Talisman offers an open sitting area with a lovely fireplace. Like some of the previous restaurants I have mentioned, they also have live music on Friday Nights.

Brew Bistro and Lounge: If you are in the mood for big steaks, this is THE place to go. This place is also very hip and popular among local young crowd and expats. The bar section tends to always be packed and plays loud hip hop music. To give you an idea: the dining area is located on the other side of the bar. For those who do not like the bar scene, you can have dinner in the dinning area, away from the music. Brew Bistro also offers its own flavor beer, which I hear is very good. Since I am not a beer person, I cannot comment on that specifically, but I’ve heard friends mentioning how good the beer is. In general, the food is well served and tasty. The price is above Nairobi average , so I would overall classify the Brew Bistro as being one level up from the other restaurants.

Karen Blixen Restaurant: I think there is a separate name for this restaurant, Tamambo. Restaurant is sitting on a very big , beautifully kept garden. Is very popular among expats, also one of the stopping point for tourist busses. Restaurant part serves great burgers and some local food too. On Sundays, Tamambo offers brunch, great place to hang-out with children, well-kept garden offers them a free space to run around. It also has a separate bar area, which has TVs showing rugby, baseball, and soccer. The bar gets crazy busy at nights. Since Karen Blixen is a historical area, there are also great places to visit nearby for food, coffee, and sight seeing.

Mediterraeno Italian Restaurant: This is another Italian chain. I have dined at this restaurant in Junction Mall many times. You dine with candle lights and have the option of both indoor and outdoor seating. While the restaurant is mostly busy, it never feels too crowded. Pizzas are great! Serving is fine, prices are average.

Phoenician: Phoenician serves both Lebanese and Japanese food. Interesting combination, right? Anyway, whenever we wanted to eat Japanese, this is the place! The Phoenician is located on the top floor of Junction Mall. When you are ordering the tepanyaki, it is more than enough for two people. I have never tried their Lebanese food, so I cannot comment on that. But, if you eat Japanese you know you have to be careful about fresh ingredients! So, I can comfortably recommend Phoenician, their sushi is always freshly served and delicious.

Seven Seafood and Grill: So far, this is the only seafood restaurant I have been to. I am not sure if there are more seafood restaurants out there. It is located on ground floor in ABC Place, right on Waiyaki Way. Do not be surprised if you see a chic decoration once you are in the restaurant. That was a surprise, I would not expect a decoration like this in ABC Place, I loved it! It is highly popular and crowded, so you need to have a reservation especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Seven also offers an open seating and lounge area offers hip music playing at the background, kind a noisy though. The dining area is separate and made up of beautiful tables with the right amount of separation for privacy. By the way, expect to pay more than what you usually pay since you are dining at a seafood restaurant.

Le Rustique: I love this restaurant! It is not only quiet, but never overly crowded. In the chance it is overcrowded, you still never feel that way. The restaurant also has a play area, which makes all the difference for people who bring their children to dinner.  They have wonderful crepes, salads, sandwiches, meats and pastas. Like all the restaurants in Nairobi, Le Rustique has indoor and outdoor dining seating. The outdoor dining area is also surrounded by beautiful greenery. It sort of feels as if you are dining at the National Park. We did not make a reservation and were very lucky to have found a table as fast as we did. Depending on the day, you may still see expats trying to find a table. And pricewise, the food at Le Rustique is not expensive, but it still is not cheap.  

About Thyme: Both Le Rustique and About Thyme are located in the same area and have similar price ranges. I found that this restaurant (About Thyme) was kind of dark, closed off, but the cost for dinner was quite similar to that of Le Rustique. I also believe that the dark furnishing probably could be attributed to the dark feeling the restaurant gives off. When I went to About Thymes once, I went with a group of friends for brunch and it was not busy. Most places here get crowded after 1pm. Regardless, the menu has tons of choices, but do not expect anything special as most of the menu is usual stuff.
I truly hope this information helps and I will update this page accordingly. Even though we all have different expectations food and price wise, we all want to eat fresh and nice food right? So, keep reading me please and I will keep updating :)

Back to Nairobi!

After two months in Istanbul with my children, I am back here in Nairobi. Last year, in July, was our first summer here in Nairobi. So for the first round, we decided to stay three weeks in Istanbul and then went back to Nairobi by August. I told myself after that summer I would never spend another summer there. The weather is quite chilly, (surely it was not extremely cold based on my version of cold) dark, cloudy, and very boring for the kids. Because most of the activities are outside here and they happen mostly during the school year, there was not too much for the kids to do. After this experience, I did decide we would never spend a summer here again. That is why we chose Istanbul! I ended up renting a nice three-bedroom apartment and the kids had the best time. They never had time to even think about being bored. If you have kids, you can relate to how active kids are!  

So by Aug 31^st, we were back in Nairobi. I am not sure if you heard in the news (well maybe the new is not an interest of yours), but there was a fire at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. The whole international arrivals were burned down! While I cannot say if this s every going to be fixed, I can tell you the burned down building was in horrible condition anyway!

We landed in Jomo Kenyatta at 2:30 am early in the morning and the flight was fully packed. Once we got off the plane, we were stuffed into buses that only take you 200 meters away!!! From there, you walk outside with a large group of people toward the big USAID tents to go through the customs and visa check. People started to get impatient at this point because the system was down, it was chilly and drizzling, and there were no proper lanes for the customs check. Once we were done with the visa check point, we ended up going to the next tent, which connects to luggage collection area. This can be very confusing, so if you plan to come to Nairobi, be prepared!

Besides all of this, I am happy to be back in Nairobi because wherever your personal items are is your home.  Therefore, no matter what conditions you are in, you will always be anxious to get back home.

Since we came back to Nairobi, it took some time to settle back into daily routine. While the kids have been preoccupied with school since September 2^nd, I have been busy with starting my own business, my article writing for expat websites, and my blog.

Oh and today a remarkable thing happened! I was simply watering my garden and I heard something. I looked around and there were five monkeys watching me! What an incredibly unique and extraordinary experience, right? Finding myself up close and personal with the monkeys was so much better than seeing them on TV or at the zoo!
Keep reading my blogs and I will be back with exciting subjects soon)

Shopping in Nairobi

Who does not like shopping these days? It is such a huge part of our lives now! Kids, man even babies, like to dress up and look fashionable. And, don’t you worry about Nairobi. They are definitely catching up with the world! There may not be many shopping malls here (at least from my point of view), but they are definitely growing.

I remember when we were looking for a house over a year ago. Our real estate agent talked to us about shopping malls with such enthusiasm. She told us about these newly opened places with this degree of amazement in her voice! She even made me excited. So… for first timers in town, I have put together a list for you.

-Junction Mall: (on Ngong Rd) It is only a few years old and there are plenty of parking spaces. On Thursdays, there is a Masai market, which I would definitely recommend. There are many restaurants in Junction Mall including the following cuisines: Italian, Chinese, Lebanese, Japanese, and continental food. I have tried it all and the verdict is in… It is delicious! There is also a wine place on the first floor. A big popular restaurant chain called, Art Caffe. I would definitely recommend the bakery, which has many healthy and tasty choices. The food court is located on the top level. Some of the stores in Junction include: Bata, Mr. Price, Kazuri, Banana Box, Nakumatt supermarket, Zucchini grocery store, Text Store, Kikoy, an art shop, Nike, Baby Shop, Converse, Levi’s, Beauty Shop, a movie center, and much more! You can check out website here at http://www.thejunction.co.ke/

- Westgate Mall: This is very, very popular. It is the biggest and newest one in town, has plenty of stores, and there is a Masai Market on Tuesdays on the top level. There is another Art Caffe which serves continental food and baked goods. The live music occurs during the weekends and it is always a crowded, popular spot. There is a chic Japanese restaurant on the upper level and a tapas place and hamburger joint on the first floor. There is also a food court on the top level for a quick bite when you want many choices. Also, there is a kids arcade located on the top level across from the food court. Nairobi Java House is also located on the top level. It is relatively new as it was recently opened. There are also many stores such as Bata, Mr. Price, Nakumatt, travel agencies, Palacina, Woolworth's, Kazuri, Ivory, Identity, Nike, jewelry stores, a movie center, and much more. Check out website http://www.westgate.co.ke/

- Sarit Center: It was the first mall in Nairobi and is known as the largest mall in East Africa. I personally think it is old, dark, and airless, but it still has many helpful stores. It is also conveniently located within walking distance of Westgate! Stores at the Sarit Center include Bata, Bike Land, Banana Box, Uchumi (a grocery store), Levi's, Toy world, and a few specialty stores such as jewelry and rug store. There are also a few restaurants (not big names), a movie center, and much more. Some of the food accommodations include a Nairobi Java House and Doorman’s Coffee Shop located on the ground level, both serving fresh coffee, desserts, and quick bites to eat. Check out the website http://www.saritcentre.com/

-Galleria Mall: On Langata Road, the Galleria Mall is new but very small since there are not many stores inside. Since there is huge road construction in front of it, I would not recommend the Galleria Mall to anyone, at least these days! You can also find an Art Caffe here and a food court on the upper level for a quick bite. Some stores include Bata, Nakumatt, Health store, Mr. Price, bike store, Uniform Store, Converse, and a few more. The best thing about the Galleria Mall is that the Nairobi Hospital outpatient center is located on the third level. It is very new and provides the best customer service in Kenya. The Nairobi Hospital at the Galleria Mall is open 24/7. Check out www.galleria.co.ke

-Yaya Center: I would not call this a mall as it is hard to get a parking space and is also quite old looking! But any expat who has a child must visit this place since the Uniform Store (all Nairobi school uniforms are sold in this place) is located in here.  Other things located at the Yaya Center include Mr. Price, Chandarana (a grocery store), Pro Bike, Mr. Price, Doorman’s Coffee, Bata, Truworths, Toy World, Book Shop, Beauty Shop, Nairobi Sports House, specialty stores such as bridal, art, optics, health, photo studios, and more. Check out www.yaya-center.com

-Village Market: Located in Runda, this is an open air, three level mall located in Runda. It is old as well, but since it is open air, I find it very refreshing. Village Market is very popular among expats. It gets very crowded during weekends and most expats hang out here. There is another Art Caffe, which is an always crowded, newly opened Italian restaurant serving good food. Many shops are located in the Village Market such as Bata, Identity, Nakumatt, Toy World, Palacina, art shops, beauty shops, bridal shops, Kikoy, Nairobi Sports House, Kazuri, Palacina, Zucchini grocery store, and some other shops as well. The last time I was at Village Market it was going through major renovation. There is also a game center for kids on the upper level. Check out www.villagemarket-kenya.com

-ABC Place: The ABC Place is located on Waiyaki Way. The best thing about ABC is the popular restaurant called Seven Seafood & Grill located on the ground level. They serve fresh fish and simply delicious food. Here, you can also find Chandarana supermarket, Zucchini grocery store, Toy World, Java House, and a few other stores. Check out their web site www.abc-place.com

In regards to grocery stores, I would recommend Nakumatt because it is easy to locate in all shopping centers as the biggest chain in town. Nakumatt sells anything you could look for from fish, to poultry, to toys, to bikes, to mattresses, to furniture, to dairy, to veggies, to mosquito nets, to garden supplies, and much more. At Nakumatt, you can get all of your shopping done in a single place that is both clean and convenient.

Being an Expat, expat wife, and child of an expat parents

For so many people, moving is such a hassle. Most people do not like going outside of their comfort zone. Imagine yourself, packing, unpacking, changing phone numbers, closing your internet, power, TV, saying goodbye to friends and in some cases to family, settling down with your kids, finding schools, and so much more every three to four years. I have so many friends and neighbors who were born in the same house they are living in now with their kids. They go to the same hair dresser, drive on the same roads and streets, shop at the same grocery stores, and their kids go to the same school they once went to. One of my good friend once told me she cannot even picture herself changing her hairdresser or moving to a new house every couple of years, let alone moving to a different country. I was never one of these people. Friends of mine always teased me. Even when I was single, I was very flexible with changing houses, buying and selling my furniture, and redecorating my new house. Some of my close friends thought I was crazy. Now even though I am married with two kids, my outlook still has not changed. I am probably very lucky to have found someone who shares the same views on life as I do.

Anyways, being an expat is not for everyone because there are so many roads you take in life with unknowns. But, that is probably what makes being an expat so beautiful and challenging. You go to these places you have never been before, witness things that you would never see by just visiting, meet so many great people from different parts of the world, and make friends from thousands of miles away. You end up missing so many things you used to have, understand their real value, and develop a greater appreciation for those things.

Our 7 yrs. old daughter (and now 2 yrs. old son) have changed schools so may times and met many friends in many places. There were times I felt guilty I did not keep them in one place, but overtime I learned something. These experiences involving changing schools, environments, and friendships will help shape their character and prepare my children for anything this century has to offer. Children have this ability to learn, see, and experience so much. They develop these personalities where they are flexible, non-judgmental, and open minded with a resilient confidence.

Of course that is not to say that there are not downsides of living an expat life. Just as there are so many beautiful and exciting unknowns, there are also unknowns that deal with culture, safety, knowledge of the community, potential loneliness, and a possible lack of the basic necessities of daily life. In my opinion, the hardest one is how hard it can become to stay connected with old friends because your perceptions and expectations in life change so much from the experience. But at time same time, you become flexible, adjustable, understanding, open to ideas, more patient, and so much more. You develop these qualities that make you realize why being human is something to cherish. Surely these changes do depend on your individual personality and character, but when you put in the effort you will see the rewarding returns.

So, I personally look at our African life as a personal development. Even sitting in the garden and writing these blogs make me think about my past experiences, what I have done, and what I could have done differently.

The bottom line is that we all need to find a way to be better and be more appreciative for what we have.

Power Cuts...

That's right, POWER CUTS! It is not occasional; it is USUAL!!! How can I explain… It is part of routine daily life in here. Yes this occurs in Nairobi despite the fact that it is supposedly a majorly developed African city. In my opinion, not so…But that is not our subject in this post.

During the rainy season, dry season, winter, and any timeframe you can think of, there are power cuts. Some days the power cuts last for hours, some days they last all day! First I thought this would be expected during the rainy season, but I have learned from living here over a year that this has nothing to do with the weather. This way of life that people are so accustomed to, (so much so that people do not even bother to complain about it or make comments about it, you feel like people have accepted this, as something that will never change  is like), it is the same thing for not having clean water or a sewage system...

When talking about power cuts, it is important to know that it effects everything around you including hospitals, schools, roads, safety and many more. I think that’s why generator companies make so much money here. You can see their offices when you drive around! This ties into my conspiracy theory that something is going on with those generator companies. There are so many power cuts that if one wants basic human needs on a daily basis, you have to purchase a generator which costs (depending on the size) around $2000 or more!

To make matters worse, in most cases when there is a power cut there is also a water cut! You get one and second one is free! And, strange enough it happens on evenings or weekends! This again goes to my major conspiracy theory. Imagine, you are home (not to mention if you have children) and there is no water and no power!

So, here is your options: You either buy a generator and extra water tank, which is usually huge because you need a tons of water, or you deal with having no power and/or water during most of your week. Just a give you an idea: imagine yourself coming home from work with long hours of driving through potholes, we you open your door there is no power or water.

For example, last night we had no power (well, we did… we have a inverter, which it was probably the smartest investment we have made!) and a huge sound was coming from outside. Guess what it was… the neighbor’s generator!!! But, do not worry, you get used to it.

So here are the facts on this issue: If you are planning to move Nairobi, be prepared for for many power cuts and/or water cuts. Make sure the place you are renting has an extra water tank. At least you do not have to spend money on this. And, buy a generator or preferably an inverter (worth extra money, but it makes no noise and the battery life is much longer!).

Blogging

There are many issues I want to cover in my blog, and sometimes I am so overwhelmed. It would be great if readers send me their questions and concerns. So following questions keeping me busy during the day, and rest of the day I am busy with my kids! Here are my questions:

1- What to write about
2-how to write about (in some issues, is it better to be politicly correct or just say it aloud?)
3- which issues readers are most want to read about?
4-how can I can make my blogs more visible?

Last but probably hardest one, cause no matter what I do my blogs are still not where I want them to be! So, I am definitely missing something here!!! Thought blogging would be easy since there are so many people doing this! Obviously I was wrong!!!

Weather in Nairobi

In general, the weather of Nairobi is pleasant. Throughout the year, it is mostly sunny with some clouds. From June until September, the weather gets colder. Even though locals find months of July and August the coldest, after living in Washington, DC and Istanbul for so long, I do not find it cold comparing it with -10 C! So, during months of July and August the temperature can drop to 10 degrees at night. In my opinion, the most boring season is the rainy time month of April. Interesting enough, it can rain day in and day out for a couple of weeks! When I moved here, which was in the month of April, I thought it would never end! After the rainy season, the weather starts to get cooler, but there are still some sunny days though. After September, the weather shifts and starts to warm up getting ready for dry season. Short rain season is somewhere around November, although it is another rainy season, it is not nearly as bad as April and it begins to warm up again. By mid-December, the pleasant weather allows for lots of fun outdoor activities. The dry season starts somewhere around January and lasts until April. The wonderful thing about the weather here is that even though it gets warm during dry season, there is no humidity. Also, the evenings are very pleasant and you only need a light jacket.

Compared to other African cities, Nairobi has best weather with its mild climate and  lack of humidity. Kids love it since they can be out in the garden throughout the whole year.

Malaria in Nairobi

Malaria is one of the major concern for people who plan to move or travel to Nairobi.

As soon as I heard about my husband’s job offer, I started my search on the Internet and read so many horror stories. Honestly, I got cold feet and even thought about not moving here. Let me mention that at that time we had a one-year-old and a five-year-old. So, I packed all the mosquito repellents on the market!

But, like in any other case, reading something about it and living in it firsthand are two very different things. So, here are the real facts:

Nairobi is located 1,795 m above sea level, which makes it almost impossible for malaria carrying mosquitos to survive (low temperatures can drop to 10°C in June/July). The cold seasonal temperature in Nairobi is thought to limit the development of the disease. But still, in some parts of Nairobi, malaria can be seen.

Is there malaria in Nairobi? In rare cases, yes, there is. It is mostly to be seen in slums where there are no sanitary systems, no wastewater drainage systems, no sewage systems, and no clean water. Especially with migration from other parts of Kenya, mosquitoes (the ones that carry malaria are called "anopheles") are able to travel in trains or via the human body. If you plan to visit or work in one of these slums, it is recommended that you use mosquito repellent on a regular basis. And if you plan to stay overnight, make sure you apply lots of repellent and cover your bed with a mosquito net and wear long sleeves and pants. And just inside info, since these anopheles are carrying malaria, they are lazy and like dark places and bite at night.

What can be done? How can you prevent malaria? I highly recommend using a mosquito net at night. There are two types on the market. There are regular nets, which you can easily find even at Ikea. Or if you'd like, you can purchase them here. And, there are also treated mosquito nets (ITN---insecticide treated net). Both types can be found in supermarkets in Nairobi. When you use an ITN, malaria carrying female anopheles do not even come to that floor! So, paying the extra penny is definitely worth it. If you are traveling to Nairobi for leisure or business purposes, mosquito nets are available in all hotel rooms, and if they are not available, you better ask for one! Besides malaria, African mosquitos are very different from the ones I've seen before! They are big and make lots of noise!!! You still need a regular bed net, even for these mosquitoes, since they can be little bothersome and noisy at nights. And if you are traveling outside of Nairobi, you must use mosquito repellents, and if you have any of the symptoms noted below, do not waste any time and see a doctor! And if possible, carry your own malaria treatment (medicines are easy to find).

Is malaria contagious? No, it is not. Even though symptoms are alike, Malaria is not like the flu. It cannot be spread by sitting next to a person who has malaria.

How soon will I feel sick if I get bitten by malaria carrying anopheles? Symptoms begin after bitten from 10 days to 4 weeks, and in some cases, within a week. If you have any of the symptoms below, do not waste any time-- see a doctor and make sure to be tested for malaria. For this diagnostic test, your blood is examined under the microscope. Remember, you will only get sick from female infective anopheles.

Where can I find mosquito repellents? There are many different types on the market. Personally, I use herbal ones, since using 'repellent with DEET' can be more harmful. Pharmacies in malls, such as Galleria, Junction, and Westgate have wide varieties of repellents. And there is a big supermarket called "Nakumatt" where you can find all that you need in one place (nets and mosquito repellents).

The good news is, living in a country with malaria causes it to be tested faster and more reliably. All hospitals are very experienced with malaria. When you go to a hospital with symptoms such as (keep in mind the symptoms also feel like a flu, so no matter what, DO NOT WAIT, get it checked) chills, fever, nausea, vomiting, sweats, and fatigue, they test you right away. And antibiotics are always available in hospitals and pharmacies. So, do not be scared, but be aware. Always do your research before you travel to any part of Africa.

Finding a House

When we got my husband’s job offer, we honestly did not think too much. Of course, we talked, discussed, and I also did my homework: searched the Internet, read books, blogs, magazines,  etc. And that was it! We made our decision and said "yes." Prior to moving to Nairobi, we lived in Istanbul for less than 4 years, and before Istanbul, we lived in US for so long that you get to a point where you are so spoiled that you forget how things work in countries other than the US...

We boarded Turkish Airlines (6 hours flight, not bad:)) on a direct flight to Nairobi. My first visit to Nairobi was in the month of February, 2012. Since we had done our research, we pretty much knew which areas we would look at for a house. Our first option was Karen, then Westlands, and Kileleshwa. But honestly, after reading so much about Karen, which is a very popular suburb among expatriates, I had kind of made up my mind. We stayed in Nairobi for five days for housing and saw many houses. Just a quick note here-- we "saw only gated compounds." A gated compound is a secured place where there are a number of single houses. There are many gated stand-alone homes in and around Nairobi. They are very nice and have huge gardens, staff quarters and so on, but I was never interested seeing one. Personally, I wanted my kids to play outside, safely, with other kids, and live their childhood as freely as possible in todays' high-tech world.

Like in any other country, finding the right house was not easy and quick for us, especially in such a short period of time! You get to talk to so many realtors, call many people, and you want to see as many houses as possible, since the pictures on the Internet can definitely misguide you!!!

Luckily, on our third day, we found our house in Karen. You would probably think it was not that hard at all! But since I had seen many compounds in different areas, I had kind of  gotten an idea of what to expect and what to get for our price range. So still today, I am very happy with my decision:). My priority was to be close to my (by that time, 5 and a half yr old) daughter’s school since road conditions can become a little bit problematic (this will be covered in another blog). And our second priority was to be close to major hospitals or a well-known doctor’s clinic (5 min from us) and, of course, shopping. And please, do not think I forgot the security. A compound has got to be a well-secured place with good and trustworthy security guys (askaris) with good recommendations from people who live there.

In Karen, single houses in gated compounds have half an acre of land, which is pretty good when you compare it with other areas in Nairobi. So here is a little info: In Karen, when you build a housing development, you must have at least half an acre per house. So, these days, there is so much construction going on in Karen that most of these houses are very big and expensive. I even came across an article about it on cnn.com.

So, if you plan to move to Nairobi, make sure to give yourself enough time to find the right house.

International Schools in Nairobi

Here is another important subject all expats will want to know about before moving here: what schools are like, whether there are good internationals schools in Nairobi, what type of curriculum they have, and so on.

We all come from different parts of the world, but a common expectation for all of us is finding a good school for our kids. There are more than enough international schools in Nairobi-- not in the downtown area, though. They are mostly located in expat areas, which makes sense. (I guess nobody would want to send their kids to a downtown school...Nairobi is not like other major metropolitan cities around the world; remember, this is Africa). So, there are three international schools where we live in Karen. They are Brookhouse, Hillcrest, and Banda International Schools. Since my daughter attended Brookhouse International School for a year and is now attending Hillcrest, I can comfortably make comments about them.

Brookhouse has the best structure in terms of the building, surroundings, gym, pool, and open field for sports activities.  Education-wise, my daughter attended for 4 terms, and during these terms, the teachers were local English speaking teachers, and I was not impressed with the quality of teaching. Unfortunately, Brookhouse has no parent involvement. The school does not provide for much socializing outside the school (commenting for Yr 1 and Yr 2). There are sports events, since it probably has best open field in Nairobi. Brookhouse provides British curriculum adopted to Kenyan and international students. The student profile is mostly Kenyan with not many, but few, expat children. For Yr 1 and Yr 2, the student profile was 80% to 20%. Because of our expectations, we have transferred my daughter to Hillcrest International School, and we are very happy with our decision, so far. On the first day of school, we were welcomed personally by the kids who were playing in the garden. My daughter has attended many schools for her young age, but we had never been welcomed like this before. All teachers are native speakers, and they are very hands-on. There are many activities in and out of school. The children’s education is very well balanced with social activities. Hillcrest provides British curriculum. There is a good mix for the student profile; it is very balanced. It also provides French and Kiswahili classes starting in Yr 1. It makes you smile when your child speaks Kiswahili with the locals. Both schools have a very well-run and established bus system. My daughter used a one-way school bus for both schools, and we felt very comfortable.

There is also the Banda School, which I have heard so many great things about from my expat friends. We could not choose Banda because of its distance to our house.

In the Runda area, there is the International School of Kenya. The majority of my friends who live in the Runda area send their kids to ISK, and they are very happy with the school’s education and social activities. ISK has an International curriculum adopted couple programs; ISK has IB as well.

In Runda, there is also a German School, but it has German curriculum, and it strictly provides education for German speaking children. English is their second language. There is the Peponi School in Runda as well. There are many expat children attending Peponi, and I believe it is not a big school, so they have a waiting list, especially for the younger ages.

There are also the Braeburn Schools. They have campuses in different areas in town. Braeburn is also an international school that applies British curriculum, and they have a long waiting list for certain areas. If you are planning to send your kids to Braeburn, you should definitely apply as soon as you make your decision.

When I was searching for a school for my daughter, one of my priorities was to be close to home. Traffic can become such an issue with these unfinished roads, especially during the rainy seasons. So, I would definitely urge you to find a house near the school you choose or do it the other way around. Otherwise, your child will have to spend so much time in traffic. My other priority was finding a school where my child would be getting a good education, where she would be happy and fulfilled socially as well. Another recommendation I can give is to just visit the school during weekdays and see it yourself. Being in the school with its students can make a huge difference, as well as having a conversation with the teachers. Many smiling face will help with your decision, and, of course, definitely talk to people around you, including your neighbors, and get their thoughts.

For Fitness Enthusiasts

Not a lot of people are fitness enthusiast, but hey, I am one of them. If I skip my exercise routine, I feel something is missing. Right after we moved here, I started my research. So even though this subject is not a priority for most people, I am sure there are some who move to Nairobi or are planning to move who would like to know where to exercise and what the options are.

Nairobi weather can be the best in terms of exercising outside, especially for activities such as jogging, walking, and cycling. The only downside is the altitude, which is 1,680m. In Karen, it is a little bit higher. If you are not used to exercising at high altitudes, you will probably have a little bit of a breathing problem[AA1] , at least at the start. When you are out, especially on Ngong Road, you can see Kenyan marathoners getting ready for next one. You probably know by now why they always come in first! Exercising outside here will be one of my best memories to look back on in future. Where else can you see baboons playing on trees when you exercise:)?  All these big trees give a wonderful breeze and the birds are singing along. If you use back roads, it is much quieter and nicer, so you indulge in more of a one-of-a-kind experience.

For indoor exercising, since I am living in Karen, I can only talk for my area. There are not many gyms around in terms of what you expect if you come from a country like the US or a major metropolitan city. There is one on Karen Road, but I have never gotten my foot[AA2]  inside, and there are some small studios that are run by ladies (mostly). They are on a class basis and include no major equipment. According to my research, there are some in Runda area as well. Since I am a regular student in one of these studios, I would definitely recommend you to be a part of one that is close to you. These studios are ran by wonderful ladies, you make friends, you get to know your trainer, and there are coffee stops at the end of class. It is a wonderful way to exercise and socialize).

Lastly how could I forget to talk about the stables? There are many stables in and around Nairobi that are run by the locals. They have wonderful instructors for a very reasonable price. They provide horses, depending on your skill level, and equipment is provided. My daughter goes to one in Karen, and she loves it. It is one lesson she wants to go back to, which is a miracle for 7years old!

Roads in Nairobi

I have been planning to write a blog over this past year, and all of a sudden, I have finally started, and here I am blogging almost everyday!

In this blog, I want to cover roads in Nairobi. Personally, I am still trying to figure out the huge potholes on roads. I am amazed by how quickly a hole can become deeper and deeper, and on the other hand, how slowly it can be fixed. Driving on these roads is like a game every day, especially during rainy season. There are not many roads in Nairobi when you compare it with other big cities around the world. (Ok, I will try not to make any comparisons. That was my first promise to myself when we moved to Nairobi! ). But the good news is there are some major road constructions going on in the city. Unfortunately, until these constructions are finished (who knows when!), driving is getting crazier every day! The other funny thing is that most roads are one way-- let me take that back-- they are not even one-way because both ways end up in one! Every time it rains, the road narrows down little by little. But you cannot imagine how quickly you can adapt and become animated when driving. My 2-year-old, especially, finds it so much fun that he puts his arms up like he is on a rollercoaster.

Most expats have these big 4x4s, (“bigger is better” is the motto here), so here I am in my little tiny Toyota trying to own my way on these narrow roads! But hey, as long as I stay away from the water filled potholes, I am 'the queen,' since my car can fit anywhere!

Would I recommend 4x4s to other expats?  Probably,' yes ' because most of us are used to driving on huge roads with signs, lights and everything. So probably, a 4x4 would be a better option. From my point of view, being Turkish, it prepares you for these kinds of situations very well, and you adapt pretty quickly (that is a must in today’s world).

I forgot to mention the bumps. Every road has bumps; I have never seen anything like this. But from another point of view, I guess you need these bumps because there are hardly any road signs, lights, etc. By the time you try to go a little faster, you have to slow down to go over one of these bumps. And your car must be high enough to go over these bumps easily (another reason why people choose to drive 4x4s). Some bumps are so high that you feel like you are going to end up like the Flintstones!

Now, let's talk about matatus. I had read so much about them before I moved here. So, whatever you read, that is the truth, nothing less. As far as I know, there is no government-run transportation. Transportation is mostly, maybe not all, run and owned privately. So up until recently, matatus owned and ruled the roads. However, beginning in 2013, the government issued new regulations for matatus, which caused protests all over the city. The good thing is roads are safer now because matatu drivers are checked on frequently by cops.

So, good luck with driving.

First day of blogging

From the first day I put my foot into Nairobi I wanted to start a blog, unfortunately never got a chance to do it,ok lets put it into a different word, never put my mind into it:) Now, it has been over a year, after going through so many things I can do this! You would probably say why it took a year to blog? Well yeah I agree, I thought moving to Nairobi would be a quick and easy transition, obviously it was not. But here I am. Lets start:)